So, you are setting up a home office and you want to protect your area rug or carpet from the desk chair that will be constantly rolling back and forth. That is a very good idea. Chair rollers can do significant damage to your rug or carpet backing, causing the latex bond to break down prematurely and within a relatively short period of time you will experience buckling, wrinkling or worse; You could end up with a whole in your expensive flooring that starts out small but soon grows in size proportional to the amount of chair rolling that has taken place. So to protect your investment, you decide to buy a plastic or rubber chair mat to put on top of that expensive rug or carpet. This seems to be a logical and economical solution, but if your house is built on a concrete foundation, you could be asking for more trouble than you anticipated.

    Even though you are protecting the surface of your rug, you may begin to see some other problems begin to surface. You may begin to notice water droplets under a clear plastic mat. This is only a sign of the damage to come. Even though it is not evident, most concrete slabs can have moisture or alkali (sometimes referred to as cleachie or cleechy) in the soil beneath that wicks up into the concrete over time. Most of the time we never know this is the case because air and gases can pass through carpets, pads and rugs. Therefore any moisture that creeps up through the slab is able to dry quickly and does not experience any appreciable damage until you put something on the floor that does not allow the air to pass through and dry out quickly. That something would be a plastic or rubber mat or runner. The plastic does not breathe, and in fact it causes condensation (by a type of solarization) (the plastic or rubber actually draws moisture or alkali (or cleechy) up through the slab more quickly). Sometimes you don't even notice a problem until the damage has already been done. This type of damage can happen under the mat or runner and you will not even notice anything until it is time to remove or replace it. There have been many occasions in my career, where during the removal of a plastic mat, the carpet just falls to pieces and the smell of mildew wafts through the air as you try to lift it off the floor. Or a client will call me to consult about a hump under their rug or carpet that was not there when it was installed. Upon investigation it is almost always a mound of alkali that has eaten its way through the concrete slab, coming to rest as a mound of fine white powder under the rug. This alkali not only damages the rug but can also wreak havoc in your concrete slab, leaving craters or sunken ridges in the actual concrete after the alkali has been vacuumed away.

    This leaves us with the question: How do I protect my rugs against rolling chair damage? ((or even excess traffic damage)? Many people often like to use plastic or rubber runners in high traffic areas to protect their rugs). If you need to protect your rug and your house is built on a concrete slab, always use something that breathes (allows air and gases to dissipate). One of the best products for rolling desk chairs is a masonite (or any densely packed particle or veneer) desk mat. These are made of compressed wood and will allow your chair to roll easily across the floor without causing damage to your rugs and carpets. You could also kill two birds with one stone, by building a platform for your office area and cover it with whatever materials you desire (hardwood or laminate looks great). This way you can add to your home decor by defining the space that is used as your home office. Just make it large enough for the desk and chair to reside upon. This also allows for portability. If you decide to change your office area, you simply have to move your platform to a new location and "Bob's your uncle". This also allows you to play with the shape of the platform. You could have a round, square or kidney shape office space. If a platform is outside your ability or budget, you may also use area rugs made of natural materials that are densely and tightly packed. These can also do the trick just fine. If your house is built on a concrete slab, stay away from mats, runners or even rugs that are made of plastic or rubber, or have a solid rubber or latex backing on them. These will only bring you heartache and eat away at your flooring investments.

    What if my house has a wood floor? If your house was built up off the ground with wood floors being the part that you walk on, you are relatively safe to use plastic or rubber mats. But if your house is an older home with hardwood floors already in place, why in the world do you have carpet, get rid of that carpet and pad and have your hardwood floors refinished. It will add great value to your home. But you may be using an area rug in the spot where your desk and rolling chair reside. If this is the case you would most often be safe in using any type of mat (unless you suspect any type of moisture or leaks under the wood flooring). If you have any doubts about moisture problems, it is easy to test for moisture in any type of sub-floor. Simply take a piece of plastic wrap, at least six inches square, and duct tape it (all around the edges) to the concrete or wood sub-floor in all suspected areas. If there is any moisture problem you will begin to see droplets of water forming under the plastic wrap within two to three days (or sooner).

    Any Desert Rat worth his salt knows how to use solarization to produce condensation. It can be your best friend if you are lost in the desert without water, as long as you have a piece of plastic. You just dig a small hole in the ground, drape the plastic over the hole so that it droops in the middle and have some kind of container underneath to catch the condensed liquid so that you can have some water to drink. However, this same process, is an enemy to your floors and should be avoided if you want to keep your flooring in good shape. Let your floors breathe and they will give you many years of quality service.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

4:26 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

March 10

Answer to Rug Problem (Sliding and Bunching)

    Olefin fiber is mostly associated with sub-standard (cheap) Area Rugs. Although many economy commercial carpets are made from olefin fiber, they are usually in looped form. A 26oz. commercial, level loop carpet will generally give decent wear in a light to medium commercial environment. Olefin or polypropylene fibers in a cut-pile or any other style other than a tight loop will generally not give you very good value for your money. When choosing a rug, the best fiber is wool. If you cannot find a wool rug in your price range, at least make certain you buy a nylon fiber rug or man-made-silk. When browsing the economy rug market you will often find rugs that are blends of olefin, polypropylene, etc..., remember that these rugs will Not give you great value. Olefin and blends tend to hold onto stains that are oily or greasy and although they clean well, they do not wear as well as wool, man-made-silk, or nylon. Olefin and other man-made synthetic fibers tend to crush and mat in the areas where they are walked on the most. I would mention that authentic silk makes a terrific area rug, but these are usually high-end and the cost is more than the average person can afford. If you must buy a synthetic fiber rug, make certain that it is nylon, or man-made-silk, as these will give you the best wear and cleanability for your money. Wool Area Rugs are also truly "Green" (environmentally friendly, bio-degradable) whereas olefin and other man-made fibers are not. I almost hate to even mention that part because so many big companies are abusing the word "Green" (environmentally friendly, eco-friendly), they are using these words to describe anything that is recycled or uses the smallest amount of recycled content or even saves one drop of crude oil. As for me the only products that are truly "Green" means that they are completely bio-degradable, and will have no significant impact on the environment, Ever! Yes it is better to use recycled content for carpet and rug yarns (among many other things) but that does not make it "Green". If it will someday end up in a landfill, how can we say that it is "Green". No matter how good recycled synthetic yarn is, I have yet to hear of a way to recycle it again. So where does all that synthetic (plastic) yarn ultimately end up? In a land fill somewhere on our planet. Anyway wool, silk and even cotton are truly "green" products.

    If you shop around Online you can generally find good quality wool area rugs for about the same price as nylon. Similar to the rugs that we feature on our web site. For the average home, a wool area rug is always money well spent.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

4:41 PM GMT  |  Read comments(1)

April 18

5 Steps to No More Wrinkles, Buckles and Bunching Ever Again

5 Steps to Area Rug Bliss – No More Wrinkles, Buckles and Bunching ever again

Your new area rug can be a joy or a nightmare. Here are 5 steps to Area Rug Bliss. 5 tips to help you rid yourself of wrinkles, buckles and bunching forever.

1. Buy a Decent Area Rug

Area Rugs are often bought as an impulse item. When you need a rug to accent your décor or to cover an ugly spot, don’t give in to the temptation of buying a chain store special, based on color and price only. An area rug should be a well thought décor item, not a cheap after-thought. You don’t have to break the bank. Most good quality wool fiber rugs are available in style and qualities that will fit most any budget. Fine quality wool fiber area rugs can be purchased Online and shipped right to your front door for about the same price as those chain store pretenders.

2. Buy a New Zealand Wool Fiber Area Rug

Wool Fiber that has been shorn from New Zealand sheep is the best fiber for an area rug. Why a New Zealand sheep? Because they have been bred to produce “carpet quality” wool fiber. An area rug of New Zealand wool fiber will be soft on the feet and extremely durable. Most stains are not a problem; simply blot gently with clear warm water for best results.

3. Make sure it is at least 12mm to 14mm pile density

An area rugs density will play an important role in its life and performance. A flimsy cotton or olefin (polypropylene) rug or a runner without a secondary backing is nothing but trouble. A rug without sufficient density will wrinkle, warp, buckle and bunch. Not to mention the battle for possession that takes place when you try to vacuum it. The vacuum almost always wins this battle as you try using your feet to keep it under submission and out of the suction tube. I don’t know anyone who enjoys constantly adjusting and straightening their rugs. If you buy a rug with sufficient pile density (or weight) it will remain where you place it and behave when you vacuum. I prefer rugs of at least 12mm. Especially if they are to be placed over wall-to-wall carpet. Buy a dense rug and let gravity keep it in position and under control.

4. Cotton or Jute Backing is preferred

Although cotton or jute backing is preferred, many rugs are manufactured with a secondary backing. I prefer rugs that are woven without the secondary backing. Because you can tell if it’s a good quality rug when you can detect the pattern of the rug while looking at it from the back. Whether a rug is machine-made or hand-knotted it has to be woven into something. Cotton or jute is preferred, but polypropylene mesh is fine when used in the backing of a rug (but never the face fiber). However; some rugs need that secondary backing to add density and weight. Also consider how the are rug is bonded. Single backed area rugs only need a small amount of latex to keep them bonded while secondary backing rugs need more latex to secure the backing material. If the rug maker uses synthetic latex for bonding, your nose will be happy. It will only have a new rug smell for a short period of time. If your rug maker uses a lot of real latex to secure a secondary backing, it will most likely stink of burnt rubber for years to come. Especially when the weather gets hot. Most noses and eyes are sensitive to real latex in larger doses. If you have chemical sensitivities, stick to single backed area rugs that don’t use heavy applications of synthetic latex.

5. Don't place Heavy Furniture on your Area Rugs

Area rugs are often intended to define and delineate space. If your rug is too big for the area you are decorating you will be tempted to tuck the edges of the rug under your heavier pieces of furniture. When heavy furnishings are placed on an area rug they can often cause bunching and wrinkling where the furniture legs are indenting their selves into your rug. This can cause the most beautiful and expensive rugs to look cheesy and warped. Indents, wrinkles and warping of rugs from heavy furnishings can also become more permanent. To avoid costly rug repairs down the road, keep four to six inches of distance from heavy furniture. (Coffee tables are fine; sofas, hutches and entertainment systems are a definite no-no). Although not often. Some rug applications may result in the need for a dense and firm rug pad (or cushion). I always suggest the use of all-felt or synthetic all-felt rug pads.

Avoiding the hassles of wrinkles, buckles and bunching in your area rug is as easy as pie when you consider applying these 5 tips. Your new area rug can be a joy or a nightmare. Always buy good quality (not museum quality) New Zealand wool fiber area rugs with a single woven and bonded cotton or jute backing, and never place it under any heavy furniture. Follow these rules and your new area rug will be a joy for many years to come. Visit our web site for more area rug and home décor items and information.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

    Huge satellite dishes used to be a symbol of status. Dish technology has changed this forever. Everything connected with dish satellite is smaller and better. The only thing that is getting bigger is the size of your television screen. Those ten foot monster dishes are only worthy of the scrap heap. High Definition and DVR are here to stay and TV life has never been better. "My Dish Biz" is all over the Internet right now, and for good reason, people deserve a better media experience and a chance to make extra cash.

    Dish Satellite Television is leaping above the pack in service, quality and options. My first satellite dish was a monster that engulfed about one-third of my backyard. It had to be aimed directly and precisely to the satellite I wanted to view and then it had to be fine tuned to get the best reception. This required a receiver unit, a tuner unit and a satellite positioning unit (plus another black box, if I wanted to watch certain channels). At the time, this was thought to be hi-tech stuff, and a person was actually proud that everyone for miles around could see the behemoth ten-foot satellite dish, it was a symbol of status. The truth is, that we lived on the side of a mountain in a somewhat remote location so if we wanted any kind of decent television to watch, this was our best option at the time. It sure beat continuously turning a rectangular antennae that we previously had mounted atop a thirty foot pole. The truth is, that I am happy to finally be rid of my huge eyesore and all the cables and equipment it took to operate it.

    There have been huge leaps in satellite television technology since then. Satellite dishes are now no larger than 20 inches and can be placed in an obscure area on your roof. Large satellite dishes are no longer a symbol of status. Today is the age of Big Screen television. We purchased our big screen (54 inches) about two years ago. It came with High Definition capability, but at the time I did not know what I was missing, so I did not bother to check into HD programming. I never watched a lot of television until the past couple of years. First I was diagnosed with Fibromyalgia, and my age is starting to really slow me down. After a day at work, I am wiped out, and it has become more likely for me to spend the evening watching the big screen TV. It was nice to have a big screen TV, but nothing special.

    Until the day that my big screen television was hooked up to high definition dish programming. Now all I can say is WOW! What a difference HD makes. The clarity of high definition television is about two-thirds better than traditional television. Combine this with a greater selection of decent channels to watch, a simple surround sound system and a DVR (which was free) and WOW! I feel absolutely spoiled rotten, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I even have a remote control that operates every piece of media equipment I own. I even got rid of my stereo unit because everything is now "hooked up" to the television. You used to have to posses five to eight different units for different kinds of media. With modern big screen televisions and a DVR combined with a simple surround sound system, you can do it all from the comfort of your chair and one universal remote control (the remote control is the only technology that has not been reduced in size, and that is simply because it controls everything). Between these three pieces of equipment I can watch, record and playback HD television. I can listen to my favorite music on dish satellite or plug my ipod right into the television. I can also view all the digital pictures I have of my grand-children by inserting an SD-Card into the ready made slot. I can even hook my PC directly to my big screen for awesome gaming or detailed graphic manipulation. I am really not a lazy person, these capabilities just free up more of my time for important things. Once you have it all set up, you control it all from anywhere in the room. There are even remote programming capabilities using the Internet or your cell phone (I haven't tried those yet).

    I mentioned set up, so let's take a moment to discuss that. The thought of having a new satellite dish installed probably delayed my decision about as much as anything else. When I got my first ten foot monster dish back in the nineties, it took several men several days to assemble, install, wire and tune all of the gigantic pieces of hardware that it took to simply operate the television. I had to pay the "satellite technician" several hundred dollars for his time, as well as supplying volunteer workers for the assembly and installation. When I finally made the decision to get "hooked up" with Dish TV, They sent a very young man to install everything. To my surprise and delight, he was able to install set up and fine tune everything almost as fast as he could explain how to use the remote control. Installation came Free with the dish package I signed up for, and it truly was, a surprise and delight.

    I am a simple and humble working drone like every other red-blooded American. I work hard for every dollar I earn and I believe that service is just as valuable as products. Self-serve has become an American way of life. I miss the days of gas station attendants that would pump your gas and check your car, hostesses and waiters that would attend to your desires and even bank tellers that you could have a decent conversation with. Today, we have to build our own furniture, pump our own gas, serve our own food and just try to get a real person on the phone when you need them (all you get is a maze of recorded prompts). The "kid" who installed my dish system would have spent the whole day with me, just explaining how everything worked. That means a lot to a man like me.

    If you are half the media hound that I am, you owe it to yourself to check out the features and offers that dish TV has for you. I am certain that you will be as pleased as I was with the service and the value that you will get (over one hundred HD channels. I will not worry about reruns for a long time to come). What are you waiting for? Get "Hooked Up" with Dish TV. By the way, my seventy-one year old father recently added dish TV to his sixty-one inch television. So, in the words of my father, "that's pretty cool".

--- Click Here for More Info on Dish TV Programming ---

(you can even design and order your Dish Package Online)

    I was so impressed with Dish TV that I signed up as an affiliate. You can earn extra cash (or a full-time income) just by sharing your experience with Dish TV. For FREE (without having to pay $50.00 for the useless visitor thing).

Check out the bottom of the page on my new web site.

May God Bless You,

Charles Beason

Check out my new web site at: www.R-U-Dished.synthasite.com

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    Pile Reversal or Watermarking or Pooling as it is often referred to, can be a problem. According to our statistics we have seen cases in only about 1 out of 500 to 1000 orders... Although your chance of getting a carpet that exhibits this problem is extremely low, you can choose styles of carpet that will be less likely to ever show pile reversal.

    Examination and my experience of over 35 years in the flooring industry have proven the following. In the application of various carpet and rug types or styles, the most notorious for exhibiting pile reversal problems are Saxony and Plush (also known as cut-pile), followed closely behind by Textures, and we must not neglect this less likely result from a Cut-and-Loop (or Sculptured) carpet. The candidates for best defense against pile reversal used to only be Looped Style carpets such as Level Loop, Textured Loop or Berber. But these style tend to have an industrial appearance unless they are a pattern style carpet. Patterned, Looped Carpet would be a product that would not show pile reversal, and patterns are coming back in style this year. Most of the newer patterns are a combination of looped and cut-pile, but since they are dense and low profile, even the cut-pile portion of the pattern would be unlikely to show pile reversal.

    However, if you want to own a carpet that has a deeper and more cushioned feel, then a Cut-Berber may be what you are looking for. By far, the type of carpet (or rug) that is least likely to exhibit pile reversal, would be a Cut-Berber. Also known as Frieze. Although this type of carpet is technically considered a cut-pile, the construction of tight twists that tend to lay in differing directions, makes this type of soft surface floor covering the least likely to ever experience any type of pile reversal. Even if there were a pile reversal problem it would not be evident to even a trained professional.

    For those who are unaware, pile reversal is not considered a defect in carpet or rug construction. If it occurs in a Plush style carpet, it will be extremely notable as what is considered "pooling" or "watermarking". As this problem is not considered a defect, it is not covered by any warranties from the manufacturer. This can be most unsettling for a consumer that is unaware of pile reversal. I assume that this question has come up as a result of such an experience by the person who posed it. Pile reversal is not an overwhelming problem in the flooring world. Your chances of getting a carpet or rug that exhibits pile reversal is rather slim. But if you are one of the unlikely few who end up with an area of "watermarking" (so called because it looks like someone poured water over an area of your carpet that has caused the fiber bundles to lay in a direction that is opposing to the surrounding fibers) in your brand new carpet, you certainly want to avoid any chance of the problem in the future. Especially if you fought with the manufacturer over what you considered must have surely been a defect that would be covered by the warranty.

    To avoid any chance of pile reversal you may consider buying a Cut-Berber or Frieze carpet. Not only will pile reversal never show, the nature of this type of carpet makes it an excellent choice for high-traffic homes and ease of care and cleaning. The big difference in durability comes from the fact that you walk almost entirely on the sides of the fiber bundles instead of the top of fiber bundles as you do in a Plush or Saxony. I hope that this information will help you choose a type of carpet that you will be happy with for many years to come.

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

Fine Wool Area Rugs and Home Decor Items.

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    Brand New area rugs tend to have an exotic odor. This can be due to a number of factors, I will quickly list a few...

1. New Rugs are often packaged for shipment as soon as they are completed, whether hand-made or machine-made, they are quickly placed in an air tight plastic bag or container. These new rugs have not yet been allowed to outgas (allow smelly stuff to dissipate) before packaging and shipping directly to you. This can often be the number one reason for smelly New Rugs.

2. Some New Rugs will have an exotic smell based on the area or region that they were constructed. Certain chemicals in the dyes, washes and rinses used in rug manufacture can account for some smells. I have had people tell me that a rug made in India smells like India, and a rug made in Thailand smells like Thailand (I guess you would have to spend time there to know this. I can attest to certain decor items that smell like the countries or cities I have visited in the Far East).

3. Some of the Foulest smelling New Rugs have a very distinct odor and a very distinct reason for that smell. Most area rugs use some form of latex to insure a good bond between the fibers and the backing of the rug. This smell is directly proportional to the amount of latex used, some rugs have a solid latex layer on the back and these are the type that I am always warning people not to use over a cherished flooring such as vinyl, hard-wood and laminates, because they will eventually cause damage to such flooring not to mention that it takes them longer to outgas. There are also two types of latex used depending on the region where the rug was made. There is Natural Latex and Synthetic Latex. Natural latex has a stronger smell than synthetic latex. It can manifest as anything between a burned rubber smell to a smell that reminds us of gasoline.

    The best way to keep the strongest odors out of your home is to unwrap your new area rug outdoors, in the garage or a patio and allow it some time to outgas before you bring it into your home. Just a day or two outdoors can outgas a majority of the strongest smells, but your rug may continue to smell for a week or two. It can take some rugs even longer to outgas if the manufacturer used natural latex. Some rugs never do fully outgas or may seem okay until you spill something on it or have it cleaned and the smell gets stronger again. Many synthetic rug pads may also need out-gassing before interior use.

    You can minimize your chances of dealing with a really smelly rug by buying a wool fiber rug with a standard heat-set backing from a reputable source and ventilate the room by cracking open some windows for the first few days (72 hours) after you unpackage your new area rug.

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

Fine Wool Area Rugs and Home Decor Items

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Here is a recent email consult I had with a very nice individual that was having Edge Curl Problems with his Area Rug. Here is the Substance of our email and a possible solution for this problem. This is a DIY Tip from me to you.

    I thought this might be a typical consult on edge curling problems in light-weight area rugs. In this instance it was quite fortunate that this individual sent some pictures of his area rug for me to look at, as it turned out that he actually had what appears to be a Wool Fleece (not a Shag rug), and not an average light-weight area rug. Dealing with edge curl on a light weight Fleece can really be a challenge, once the edges begin to curl it becomes increasingly difficult to get them back into position so that they lay flat against the floor, this is . Edge Curl, Bunching and Wrinkles are  problem for many light-weight rugs. Aside from Fleeces, there are a variety of rugs that may defy gravity and generally give you a hard time, when you just want them to lay flat and behave. Examples of light-weight rugs include some needle-punch or flat-weave rugs and some Kilims and Soumaks are more similar to a tapestry in weight and points per square inch. Many cotton or polypropylene (olefin) rugs that do not have a solid latex backing tend to exhibit these problems. Latex or rubber backed rugs can cause even greater problems, you can read about them in my blog or on my web site. My Advice: Do Not Buy Any Area Rug With a Solid Latex Backing (unless it's for use on a patio or outdoors)! Okay, back to light-weight rugs and one possible solution for them. Here is the actual email response as I sent it...

Hi (Mr. Example),

What you have is not actually a standard area rug per se', it looks as though you have an actual Wool Fleece which is great except for problems with edge curling. Most rug pads will not be of any help to you with this type of rug. One of the best solutions I could offer you would be to add substance and weight to your fleece by applying a secondary backing. You could use any heavy fabric or even a fabric painter's tarp (or canvas) for your secondary backing. Using a latex based adhesive (a multi-purpose flooring adhesive will work fine) and a stiff paintbrush to apply it and bind your secondary backing to the back of your fleece rug. Here are the steps I would take.

1. Turn fleece rug over so back faces up.

2. Cut your fabric slightly larger than your fleece rug to allow for expansion or contraction of the fabric while the adhesive cures. Dry fit onto the back of the rug and be sure to allow 1 inch or so around all edges (you will trim it exactly after everything is done).

4. Roll back half of the fabric and apply your adhesive (approximately 1/32 to 1/16 inch layer of adhesive, you don't want the adhesive to ooze through the fabric or the fleece), then roll and press fabric back onto the fleece.

5. Repeat this step for the other half.

6. Before you turn the fleece back over you will probably want to lay out some newspapers or a tarp so you don't get adhesive on your primary flooring - Then turn the fleece back over.

7. Press and push from center of fleece to the outer edge with your hands to make certain the adhesive binds to the fabric and the back of the fleece.

8 After the adhesive dries completely (follow directions on container for drying time) approximately 4 hours for many adhesives, you can then use scissors to trim the fabric edges to fit the fleece rug. As you trim, make certain you have a good bond between your fabric and the back of the fleece. (You can peel back and re-glue any edges that may need reinforcing).

    Now you have added enough substance and weight to your rug to keep the edges from curling, you should get many years of use out of it without fighting edge curling problems. Many people also use the technique I described above, but only apply a 6 inch strip of canvas to the edges. Since your fleece is so light-weight, I would suggest covering the entire backing according to the steps above. Hope this helps you... write me if you have more questions.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

PS. Be sure to use a Fabric, Canvas, or Jute that is heavy or dense, but will still allow the rug to "breathe", this will help prevent the type of problems that occur with solid latex backings. It is very important that moisture and gases can pass through the rug and dissipate into the indoor atmosphere.

Primary reasons for problems with rug runners for Home Decor use.

    Most rug runners that are sold by the foot were actually designed for stairways. They are usually a flat-weave construction and were designed to be tacked or stapled in place. Many people try to use these type of rug runners on the main wear areas in foyers and hallways. This seems like a good idea, especially if you have a good wall-to-wall carpet that you are trying to protect.

    The problems that arise from using a flat-weave over carpet are due to the fact that they were not designed for this purpose. When you choose a runner to take most of the abuse from foot traffic in your home, you need to choose a runner that is NOT a flat-weave. A standard cut-pile area rug runner is the best choice for this type of application. Choose a runner that has a standard heat-set backing, and most importantly, choose a runner that has substance. When I say substance I mean that the rug runner should have enough weight to allow gravity to keep it in it's intended position. A twelve to fourteen mm. density is usually perfect for such a purpose. A better quality rug runner will not wrinkle or curl the way that a flat-weave does, however, most rugs or runners will tend to crawl (or travel) in the direction of the carpet nap. If your rug runner has substance and proper backing, it will not move around much. A few inches per week under normal traffic (not nearly as much as a flat-weave runner).

    It is my opinion that Wool is the best kind of rug or runner for indoor use and there are a multitude of color and pattern choices that will fit your home decor and offer much better performance than a synthetic fiber flat-weave rug runner. Shopping for a good quality rug runner on the Internet will usually afford you the best quality rug runner for your money by cutting out the high mark-up of most retail stores. I have selected some of the better deals I have found online on my web site and I will try to add more runners to the selection soon.

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com  --- Fine Area Rugs and Home Decor Items.

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Vacuum Tracks and Footprints on Rugs or Carpets

    Almost all Cut-Pile (Plush or Saxony) Rugs or Carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints. It is the inherent nature of this type of rug. Cut-Pile rugs in solid colors will tend to show more than a multi-color, but they all will show to some extent. I am always mindful of this when I consult with a client, and I will generally ask them if tracks and footprints bother them. If it does, I will show them another style of rug or carpet. Texture styles are a little better, but will still show some, in solid colors. If you absolutely hate vacuum marks, choose a Cut-Berber, Berber or high-low style rug or carpet.

    Although cut-pile rugs and carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints, they reflect light in such a manner as to give the flooring a very luxurious effect. This luxurious look comes at the cost of footprints and vacuum trails.

Charles Beason,

www.rugrunnerbiz.com

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    I continually have clients asking me about buying clear plastic runners to put on top of their carpet to protect it from traffic, soil and spills. So I thought I would write a few lines about it. Using plastic runners in your high traffic areas sounds like a logical way to protect your carpet investment... but more often then not, they can cause more damage than they prevent.

    On my web site and in my blogs, I have spoken to the problems that can be presented when you use area rugs with a solid latex or rubber backing. I have also written an article about the damage that can occur to carpet and pad from the use of solid plastic, vinyl or rubber office chair mats. However, I neglected to mention that the same problems can occur with the use of plastic runners on carpet (or rugs) when your home is built on a concrete slab foundation.  If you will reference my article 'Avoiding Rug Damage in the Home Office' you will be able to understand the type of problems that can occur when you cover any flooring product with a solid plastic, vinyl or rubber, whether it is a mat, runner or rug. Since most of the information can be found in the article link above, I will keep this post short. Here is a short summary:

    If your house has a concrete slab foundation (and sometimes wood sub-floors can be affected)

* Any Flooring product, or any product designed to protect your flooring needs to be able to "Breathe" (allow moisture and gases that are in your sub-flooring (concrete or wood) to pass through harmlessly and dissipate).

* Never use Plastic Runners. They will damage your flooring. If you feel that you must use plastic runners, you will cut your chances of damage by fifty percent if you use a runner that is ventilated. (See Vent-A-Mat at www.TheMatStore.com) These runners have small holes every inch or so to allow water vapor and gases to pass through and more safely dissipate into the air, which means less chance for damage to your flooring. Ventilated plastic runners will decrease chances of damage, but they are not a perfect solution.

* The best product for protecting your flooring investment is rug runners. But be sure to buy the type that "breathe". A Rug Runner is simply a long, narrow rug. It can have a woven backing or a standard heat-set (action type) backing. As long as you choose one WITHOUT a SOLID Layer of PLASTIC, VINYL OR RUBBER on the back, it will never cause damage to your expensive Carpet (or other floorings). Long, narrow Area Rugs work great as runners. Any area rug that is longer than it is wide can be used, and wool is the best type of fiber, but nylon will also do nicely. Or you can buy runners by the lineal foot (running foot). But be aware that most runners that are sold this way are designed to be fastened to stairways and steps, these will tend to wrinkle and bunch if used over wall-to-wall carpet.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

Some people are experiencing problems with area rugs made from certain fibers. Here is one reason why.

As I browsed a popular chain-store not long ago, I noticed that area rugs have made a dramatic shift in composition compared to a few short years ago. Since my livelihood is based on having an intimate knowledge of the flooring products that I suggest to my clients, I always read labels... especially on deals that seem to good to be true. And as I browsed through the offering of area rugs in the chain-store, I noticed that almost all the rugs were made of polypropylene or it's very close cousin, olefin. I am a firm believer in consumers being well informed and getting a good value for their money. So I seek here to give a fair comparison of this fiber against what is clearly a better fiber for your money.

    Let me start out with the good qualities of polypropylene and olefin. This fiber is a fairly strong man-made fiber that is well suited to mats and runners that may be used at entrances or patios or even outdoors, if properly treated for UV protection. In the past you would almost always find this type of fiber in a low profile, very tight loop style rug, and that is what it is best suited for. Many light to medium duty commercial carpets are made of this fiber (always in loop form). This fiber is usually extruded to the color that it will be (not dyed after extrusion), so it tends to hold it's color well and can be used in intricate designs. This fiber is also resistant to most types of stains, and cleans up well (in tight loop form). Many manufacturers of area rugs choose this fiber because it is cheaper than other fibers and they can pass the savings on to the consumer.

    Now let me point out the not so good qualities of this fiber. This fiber is a man-made synthetic fiber that is petroleum based (not very "green" or environmentally friendly). Although it is a good indoor-outdoor type of fiber in tight looped form, it is basically useless in any other form. In a cut-pile or plush rug it has a bad reputation of matting and crushing very quickly, so even though the fiber is not wearing out, it begins to look very ugly pretty fast. Although it holds color well and resists many types of stains, it tends to hang on to stains that are oily or greasy (even the body oils from the bottom of your feet and your pet's feet). In other words, it does not clean that well in a cut pile or plush style. So basically, if manufactured in anything other than tightly looped form, you end up with a brightly colored, greasy, oily, matted and crushed rug that looks like it has been there for years instead of months. Lastly, since it is the cheapest fiber that manufacturers use, it is not the greatest value. I have also noticed a shift in the major brand name rug and carpet manufacturers, they are also using polypropylene and olefin in their latest generation of area rugs, so just because it may have a good brand name it does not mean you will get a good quality area rug. If you want a cheap, disposable mat or runner that will end up in a landfill sooner than later, then this is the rug to buy. If you are going to buy a synthetic fiber area rug, at least make certain it is nylon or man-made silk. It will wear better and last longer.

    If you need a Fine Quality Area Rug for interior design or home decor, the absolute best fibers are silk and wool. Silk costs more and requires professional maintenance, so that leaves us with wool. Wool is a natural fiber that has better resistance to matting, crushing, fading and is a natural for built in stain protection (you can spray a fine mist of stain-protector straight from the can for even greater protection). It does not soil as easily as other fibers, and will not mat and crush for many, many years. Some wool rugs are even passed down from one generation to another; if well maintained. Wool area rugs are not that much more money than a nylon rug (as a machine made product. Hand-made will cost you more). Value per dollar is greatly increased by choosing a timeless pattern with wool fiber.

    If you shop wisely you can usually find a wool area rug for about the same price as synthetic fibers and fiber is also woven to manufacture clothing. So, my rule of thumb for area rug fiber is basically this: If I wouldn't wear it on my body, why would I want to walk on it?

Charles Beason

www.rugrunnerbiz.com

The extra layer is placed there so the rug will be non-slip, but these types of rugs cause more problems than they solve.