Question: Which is better surged edges or bound edges on a rug?

Answer: The Primary purpose of binding or surging is to finish of the factory edge, and to keep the rug from raveling or coming apart at the edges. Both styles of finishing an area rugs factory edge are acceptable. I prefer a surged edge for aesthetics. Surged edges just have a more luxurious feel to them than bound edges although they both accomplish the same purpose. (Bound edges may also indicate a lesser quality rug, but this is not always the case). Many dealers will also bind a carpet remnant in order to sell it as an area rug.  Whether your rug is bound or surged, extra caution should be taken when vacuuming with vacuum cleaner that has a beater bar/ brush. You can freely vacuum the center of your rug with a beater bar set to proper height, but I would suggest you use the suction hose to vacuum the bound or surged edges to keep them from damage. If you must vacuum with a beater bar, be sure not to capture the edge of your rug or you may break open the surge or rip off the binding.  Many cases of edge curling on a rug can also be traced to vacuuming improperly, So always vacuum perpendicular to the edge of the rug with the beater bar set to highest setting. The longevity of your rug largely depends on keeping the bound or surged edge intact and effecting repairs immediately if it should break, fray or loosen from your rug.

Question: How long should a Rug Runner be?

Answer: The length of a rug runner is based upon your needs. A rug runner is narrow and long and the length depends on where and how you will use it. Stair runners are typically sold as a cut-to-length product, so you simply order the width and length you need to cover your stairs. If you use a runner in a foyer or hall, you would want the distance from the walls (width) to match the distance (length) to the end of the hall. This will give you a more balanced look. As you shop for runners, remember that rug runners are not all the same. Stair runners do not usually work well as an area rug as they are more flexible and do not have a secondary or heat-set backing (they usually are a woven product). If you try to use a stair runner on your floor it will shift around a lot and cause wrinkles, buckles and trip hazards. If you are using a rug runner in a foyer to catch soil from shoes and feet before people enter your home, it will need to be long enough for them to take at least two or three steps on the runner before they enter onto your main flooring (Most people neglect to wipe their feet on the welcome mat that you have provided; rug runners offer you a little more protection against soiling as people enter your home).

Question: Why are there Bubbles (wrinkles) in my Carpet?

Answer: Wrinkles in Carpet can only occur for a couple of reasons. The primary reason for wrinkles and bubbles to appear in wall-to-wall carpet is the Installation. Nine out of ten times the problem is caused by an instller that does not use a power stretcher. Many installers try to get by with only using a knee-kicker, but action back carpets require power stretching to be installed correctly. Although, it is not the only reason. Here is a list of possible problems.

1. Carpet not properly Power Stretched when Installed

2. Carpet over-stretched (If carpet is stretched too far, it can break down the backing- but this is not very likely)

3. Carpet Installed when it is too cold- winter installations; (manufacturers recommend temperature of 65 degrees or more - If carpet is installed when it is too cold, it will expand when heated, causing wrinkling- this sometimes happens when a builder or customer insists on carpet being installed in new construction, before heat is available to the home)

Always contact your carpet dealer first, they should be able to detemine and correct the problem.

4. Something is physically wrong with the Carpet; This is the least likely cause, but once in a while there will be something wrong with the chemical or structural composition of the carpet itself. Have dealer or manufaturer send someone to look at the problem.

If problem comes back after proper power stretching, contact (or have your dealer contact) the manufacturer of the carpet to determine what is wrong with it.

Question: What is that White Powder under my Area Rug?

Answer: Most "economy" area rugs have a solid coating of latex on the backing of the rug. In some climates the latex backing begins to dry out and flake off. This can also happen as a result of wear. As the rug is walked on it causes the latex backing to flex up or cause lateral movement (side to side), and over time this will cause the latex to break down and begin to flake off (sometimes in small powder form and sometimes in bits and pieces). This is one of the reasons that I always suggest to my clients that you should not buy (cheap) rugs with a solid layer of latex or rubber on the back. A decent rug that has a heat-set backing or action-type backing will not experience these type of problems. --- Sometimes the white powder can be from using carpet deoderizer (a white powder) that you sprinkle on your rugs or carpet and vacuum up (this product has vey fine granules and if you use a lot of it over time it can accumulate under rugs or carpet and pad because it is impossible to vacuum all of it out). --- If the white powder is coming from your concrete and not just the rug backing, you may have an alkali problem- See Area Rug FAQ for other information (and problems) on Latex or Rubber backed area rugs.

Question: Why is there so much Fuzz coming out of my new carpet?

Answer: About Fuzzing or (Pilling): All cut pile carpets and rugs will Fuzz when the product is brand new. Part of this is due to the fact that many rugs start as loops and when the loops are cut open some of this fiber will get trapped in between the regular surface fibers. However, most fuzzing occurs as a regular part of the break in period of a carpet or rug. Rugs that are made of fine (skinny) filiments such as silk, PET, or other very skinny fibers break off from the main bundles and collect on the surface of the rug. Don't Worry! This is Normal and will stop fuzzing after a short time, dependant upon the type of fiber and it's density. Also check your vacuum setting. You want the beater bar on your vacuum to lightly beat & brush on the very top of the fibers to loosen debris so that it may be carried away. Having your vacuum set too low will merely pound your rug to death without sucking up all the dirt & debris. Keep the Questions coming...

Answer: I suspect that you have a good quality area rug. Some rugs have a stiffer backing and some are softer. You probably have a rug that is just soft enough to cause the problem. If this is the case, then it would explain the problem you are having. I would refer to it as a puckering rather than a bubble. Since the rug is on top of a wall-to-wall carpet and pad, the smaller surface areas of your furniture are pressing down on the rug and as the small area is pushed down into the soft carpet and pad, it causes the rug to push upwards around each pressure area (each leg of furniture that presses down on the rug). I am guessing that when you added the rug pad, that the situation probably was worse, or no advantage at all. I would suggest three possible courses of action.

1. Remove the rug pad, it is making the problem worse instead of better. (Sorry you wasted money on that).

2. Use hard vinyl or rubber furniture coasters (found at most hardware stores) under the legs of your furniture. A 3 inch to 5 inch coaster (the bigger the better) should spread out the pressure and lessen the problem, although it will probably not completely cure it, it can often be just enough to live with. (Some people do not like the look of furniture coasters, but they do protect your rugs and carpets from the heavy pressures of furniture legs).

3. You may have to replace the rug with one that has a stiffer backing. This will be able to support the pressure of the furniture legs without puckering up around the edges. (If you have Thick carpet and cushion under your rug, you may not be able to effectively use a rug on top of the carpet and pad. Unless the backing of the rug is really, really stiff).


If I have assumed incorrectly, just write me another email that is more detailed, but I am pretty sure this is your problem.

--- You could always glue the rug to a 1/2 inch piece of plywood, that would cure it for sure --- JUST KIDDING! :)

Question: Will a Rubber Rug Pad damage my hardwood floor?

Answer: The Area Rug Pad I suggest for Typical use (in the average home) is an All-Felt Pad. My experience is that Felt pads have the least potential for damage.

If your hardwood floors are installed over (adhered to) a concrete slab there is more potential for damage. (see Area Rug FAQ) If your hardwood is installed on a wood sub-floor that is not in contact with the soil under your house there is less chance for damage from moisture but not from chemical reactions. When ever you use a rug padding that is made of rubber, latex and or poly-blends (polyurethane and sometimes urethane) the potential for damage increases due to the fact that these styles of pad either do not "breathe" (allow air and moisture to pass through them) or they will have a chemical reaction between the man-made padding material and the hardwood finish. The finish on most hardwoods has been (in the past) urethane or polyurethane and although I am not a chemist, experience has shown that some rug or carpet pads will actually bond to the finish on the hardwood. It seems logical to me that the like elements would easily bond with each other over an extended period of time. As I stated, I am no chemist so the exact process is an unknown to me (I will have to research this), but the results are quite clear. The longer the contact between the rubber or man-made material pad, the more likely they will bond together (which is another good reason to rotate and relocate your area rug every so often (at least once a year). If you leave a rug in one place for too long, even without a pad, shading caused by UV rays are likely to make the flooring under the rug to appear different. This is not damage caused by a rug or pad, but by the sunlight being shaded by the rug, (I supposeI should write some info on possible UV effects). Anyway, I have found that an all-felt pad is the safest type of pad to use under your rugs. Felt pad has the added bonus of being denser and more dimensionally stable (or firmer). The firmer your pad is, the less movement resulting from foot traffic, and the less chance of damage to the internal structure of the area rug itself. In other words, your rug will last longer.

Question: What type of Area Rug is Safe to use on Laminate Floors?

Answer: I have received a question, from quite a few people, about which type of Area Rug is safe to use on a Laminate floor. This question comes on the heels of the fact that many area rugs have a solid latex or rubber backing on them, and these type of rugs will eventually do some kind of damage to hard-surface flooring (vinyl, linoleum, hard-wood). Laminate flooring is a fairly new product in the grand scheme of things, so I have been conducting a test of my own with a rubber backed rug on a standard AC3 grade laminate, 8mm thickness with an aluminum oxide finish. The rug has been inplace on top of the laminate for approx. eight months now. So far there is no evidence of yellowing or chemical reactions between the rug and laminate. I rolled back the rug a few days ago to check the progress and found that I had to use some waterless hand cleaner to remove some rubber deposits from the rug. This is the only problem so far... and it is a minor one. The finish on a laminate floor has always been advertised as extremely durable, and it seems to be true (but you can never be too careful). Although most problems with latex or rubber backed area rugs tend to occur over a year or more, I am happy to report that my experiment has shown that it should be safe to use rubber backed rugs or mats on a laminate surface (we will be more certain as the experiment passes the one year mark). This experiment is not conclusive, so I always suggest the use of area rugs that have a standard heat-set backing. (see pictures of various Rug Backings)

Question: Can I replace the latex backing on my area rug?

Answer: You could, But Why Would You?

As you can tell, I am not too fond of rugs that have a latex backing (see Area Rug FAQ) because the latex usually will do harm to the surface it is resting on (especially vinyl, linoleum and wood). Because it does not breathe, it can cause problems or ruin a good floor that it is on top of. If you simply cannot live without this rug, then here is my suggestion: Buy some Jute or Felt fabric (enough to cover the back of your rug) and glue it to the back of your rug. Be sure to use an environmentally friendly adhesive (latex or acrylic based glues will work) that has good elasticity. Some adhesives tend to dry out, crack and lose thier adhesion over time. So use something that is similar to latex or rubber cement. Be sure to apply a healthy coating to the back of the rug and to the fabric (but not so much that it will push through the fabric). You may want to lay some newspapers or tarp down in case of oozing. Then simply turn the rug back over and allow it to dry. This will give you a new surface on the back of your rug that will at least breathe around the parimeter of the rug.

Question: What wall colors go with polished brass fixtures?

Answer: Some of the most striking colors I have used in areas with a lot of brass accent pieces is Deep Burgandy and, or Hunter Green (from sage green to deeper emerald or hunter). Even though the darker tones of burgandy or green are considered masculine, these are colors that have always left a deep impression of luxury in my experience. Using deeper tones of these colors really shows your polished brass in an excellent light. (Especially if you are a collector and have a lot of brass in the room). Area rugs with these colors will also knock your socks off, when it comes to home decor and the use of brass.